368
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2. Pakma to Hsunchow.-Above Pakma, where is a well-known li-kin station, the river is found running through a large plain, which, with varying width, stretches from Pakma up to Kuei Hsien. The mountains in the far distance on the north form a continuous range, which occasionally sweeps south towards the river, touching it 30 miles south above Pakma at Konghon, and again 15 miles above that at Hsunchow. These mountains have the valleys at their base scantily covered with pine. The river banks are from 20 feet to 30 feet high, and from the ship can be obtained only occasional glimpses of the plain, which, at least near the river, appears to be well cultivated, producing rice, mulberry, and sugar-cane. Frequent villages are scattered along the banks, but even in this fat country the population does not appear to be great. Ping Nam is an important market town, and Konghou, well placed at the lower junction of the West River main branch with the Yu Kiang, is the busiest place we meet until we arrive at Hsunchow-fu, situated at the upper junction of these two rivers.
3. Hsunchow to Kuei Hsien-At Hsunchow (Kueiping, Samchow are the local names) our route leaves the main branch of the West River and follows the Yu Kiang, which is here only about 250 yards wide. The country between Hsunchow and Kuei Hsien seems to have a natural division line just about the place where the Kueiping and Kuei Hsien prefectures meet. For 40 miles along the river below this boundary the banks show at intervals a dark red stratified rock, while throughout the 15 miles above, between the boundary and the town of Kuei Hsien, limestone rock is predominant. With this division a change in the nature of the country corresponds fairly closely. The first 40 miles of land along the river seems practically waste land, a rough, uncultivated continuation of the plain we have been following from Pakma, growing coarse, long grass with a few pines. In the stretch of 15 miles approaching Kuei Hsien the plain is very flat and well cultivated, producing sugar and rice. The bamboo reappears and pines almost disappear. One or two villages are dotted along the banks, and it was in this district we saw the first carts, which are unknown between Hsunchow and the sea.
The above description will help one to realize the fact that for fully half of our entire route between Wuchow and Kuei Hsien the country appears to be quite unproductive, except for timber on the hill-sides. From a commercial point of view the most striking fact is the scarcity of river traffic between these two points. Except near the big centres like Hsunchow, Konghon, and Kuei Hsien, and to a small extent Têng Hsien and Ping Nam, one meets nothing on the river for mile after mile except an occasional junk carrying firewood, hides, or poultry, and some fishing-boats. A few steam launches, most of them flying the British flag, represent the foreign-built vessels. Some small timber rafts were seen below Konghou.
As regards animals, buffaloes and red cattle are fairly numerous along the river banks, especially near Hsunchow, Kuei Hsien, and Ping Nam. Above Hsunchow one enters the pony country. Ducks and geese are frequently seen in large flocks.
3. Notes on Towns en route.
Têng Hsien is the West River port for Wat Lum, an important distributing centre in the south of the province, which has also a seaport in Pakhoi, on the Tonquin Gulf. Except for some 30 miles near Wat Lum, goods can go by boat from Pakhoi to Têng Hsien.
Before the opening of Wuchow in 1897, Wat Lum was within the area of commercial attraction of Pakhoi; since then, it has been gradually drawn within the West River area. Sumatran oil is the chief foreign article now taken by Wat Lum from Pakhoi, and even this import seems to be dwindling in quantity year by year. If the French railway is ever built from Kwang Chow Wan through Wat Lum to Kueilin, it will follow the valley of the Têng River.
Kuei Hsien. I called on the Magistrate, who was very friendly, and who informed us that, apart from the "Moorhen," only one foreign gun-boat had visited the town this summer; he disagreed, however, with his Secretary as to whether it was of French or German nationality, finally deciding in favour of French. It does not say a great deal for the impression made by the different foreign gun-boats that the "Tsingtao" has since been remembered as French.
On the 12th August I paid a visit to the San Cha Shan silver mines, 15 miles to the north-west. The first half of the journey, before we got into the hills, was over a large fertile plain cultivated with rice and millet ("kao-liang"). Here we met a constant procession of men carrying baskets of liquid indigo into Kuei Hsien. Rice, however, is the chief product of the district.
The Chinese overseer in charge of the mines said they had been closed now for over a year. After running at a loss of from 2,000 dollars to 3,000 dollars a-month, the Hua Sing Company had made them over to Government. The expenses latterly had been about 6,000 dollars a-month, including 20 cents a-day each for some 250 coolies. The coal used for smelting was Japanese, and cost on delivery at the mines 20 dollars a-ton. This included 6 dollars a-ton paid for carriage by coolies over the hills from Kuei Hsien. About 100 tons were used each month. The produce of the mines was valued at about 5,000 dollars to 3,000 dollars a-month; but, though the loss was thus heavy, the overseer believes that some Chinese Syndicate in Hong Kong will attempt to work them again. A great many of the old employés were still living near the mines. Some were washing for ore in the hill streams, making, they say, about 10 cents a-day; others of the old employés had taken to indigo cultivation, which is carried on here with considerable success.
Kuei Hsien boasts two new-model elementary schools, upper and lower grade. Each has 100 pupils. Expenses are defrayed from the "t'u chuan" (tax on pigs killed), the revenue of temple lands, and the proceeds of the old University, now abolished. The schools were opened only this year, and are not yet quite complete. English and Japanese are to be taught in the upper-grade school by Chinese instructors. The French missionaries here, on whom I called, propose to build a church shortly.
Hsunchow Chow-fu.The 15th August, the Emperor of China's birthday, was spent here, and the "Moorhen," dressed ship for the occasion, and gave a firework display in the evening, which was much appreciated by the inhabitants. While mentioning these details, I may add that throughout the trip the "Moorhen" did its best to show the flag, having a jack in the bow, a white ensign at the main, and the same aft.
I did not see the Prefect, as, according to the message from his yamên, he had gone to the hills in connection with some ceremonies in honour of the Emperor. This official had just taken over office from his predecessor, of whom Mr. Fox had to complain in 1904.
The church of the French Mission was built in 1902, and is a conspicuous feature in the town. The city is well provided educationally, having primary and elementary schools and a middle college, all on the new plan. The elementary schools were clean and well ordered, while the middle college was quite palatial. In the latter the students, for some of whom there are dormitories, number over 200, and English and Japanese are both taught by Chinese instructors.
4. Competition with West River Trade.
When in Pakhoi, I was informed that before the opening of the West River the total value of trade between Nanning and Pakhoi was over 1,000,000 Haikwan taels. This has been almost entirely diverted down the West River, and the Nanning trade with Pakhoi is at present practically nil.
Lately native newspapers have again raised rumours as to French engineers surveying the Lungchow-Nanning route, but the intermediate country is generally recognized to be so poor and dangerous that it is extremely doubtful whether a line from Nanning to connect with the Haiphong-Hanoi-Dongdang line would pay. Except perhaps in three winter months such a line, provided there were no differential rates, would probably do little to divert the general current of traffic from the West River. As for the proposed railway from Nanning to Pakhoi, the apparent failure of Kwang Chow Wan as a commercial port is likely to prevent the French from building such a line, if they ever seriously thought of it, which seems doubtful.
At Wuchow many rumours were current in regard to the imminent opening (effectively) of Nanning, and the Commissioner there, Herr von Strauch, left for Nanning in a launch on the 7th August with a view, it was said, to making arrangements for Customs quarters.
5. Attitude of Natives: Piracy.
The natives along the route were quite friendly; in no case was insult offered to any one when ashore. The usual crowds formed in the streets to stare, but their behaviour was generally orderly.
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368
2
2. Pakma to Hsunchow.-Above Pakma, where is a well-known li-kin station, the river is found running through a large plain, which, with varying width, stretches from Pakma up to Kuei Hsien. The mountains in the far distance on the north form a continuous range, which occasionally sweeps south towards the river, touching it 30 miles south above Pakma at Konghon, and again 15 miles above that at Hsunchow. These mountains have the valleys at their base scantily covered with pine. The river banks are from 20 feet to 30 feet high, and from the ship can be obtained only occasional glimpses of the plain, which, at least near the river, appears to be well cultivated, producing rice, mulberry, and sugar-cane. Frequent villages are scattered along the banks, but even in this fat country the population does not appear to be great. Ping Nam is an important market town, and Konghou, well placed at the lower junction of the West River main branch with the Yu Kiang, is the busiest place we meet until we arrive at Hsunchow-fu, situated at the upper junction of these two rivers.
3. Hsunchow to Kuei Hsien-At Hsunchow (Kneiping Tamchow are the local names) our route leaves the main branch of the West River and follows the Yu Kiang, which is here only about 250 yards wide. The country between Hsunchow and Kuei Hsien seems to have a natural division line just about the place where the Kueiping and Kuei Hsien prefectures meet. For 40 miles along the river below this boundary the banks show at intervals a dark red stratified rock, while throughout the 15 miles above, between the boundary and the town of Kuei Hsien, limestone rock is predominant. With this division a change in the nature of the country corresponds fairly closely. The first 40 miles of land along the river seems practically waste land, a rough, uncultivated continuation of the plain we have been following from Palma, growing coarse, long grass with a few pines. In the stretch of 15 miles approaching Kuei Isien the plain is very flat and well cultivated, producing sugar and rice. The bamboo reappears and pines almost disappear. One or two villages are dotted along the banks, and it was in this district we saw the first carts, which are unknown between Hsunchow and the sea.
The above description will help one to realize the fact that for fully half of our entire route between Wuchow and Kuei Hsien the country appears to be quite unpro- ductive, except for timber on the hill-sides. From a commercial point of view the most striking fact is the scarcity of river traffic between these two points. Except near the big centres like Hsunchow, Konghon, and Kuei Hsien, and to a small extent Têng Hsien and Ping Nam, one meets nothing on the river for mile after mile except an occasional junk carrying firewood, hides, or poultry, and some fishing-boats. A few steam launches, most of them flying the British flag, represent the foreign-built vessels. Some snall timber rafts were seen below Konghou.
As regards animals, buffaloes and red cattle are fairly numerous along the river banks, especially near Hsunchow, Kuei Hsien, and Ping Nam. Above Hsunchow one enters the pony country. Ducks and geese are frequently seen in large flocks.
3. Notes on Towns en route.
Têng Hsien is the West River port for Wat Lum, au important distributing centre in the south of the province, which has also a seaport in Pakhoi, on the Tonquin Gulf. Except for some 30 miles near Wat Lum, goods can go by boat from Pakhoi to Têng Hsien.
Before the opening of Wuchow in 1897, Wat Lum was within the area of commercial attraction of Pakhoi; since then, it has been gradually drawn within the West River area. Sumatran oil is the chief foreign article now taken by Wat Lum from Fakhoi, and even this import seems to be dwindling in quantity year by year. If the French railway is ever built from Kwang Chow Wan through Wat Lum to Kueilin, it will follow the valley of the Têng River.
Kuei Hsien. I called on the Magistrate, who was very friendly, and who informed us that, apart from the "Moorhen," only one foreign gun-boat had visited the town this summer; he disagreed, however, with his Secretary as to whether it was of French or German nationality, finally deciding in favour of French. It does not say a great deal for the impression made by the different foreign gun-boats that the "Tsingtao" has since been remembered as French.
On the 12th August I paid a visit to the San Cha Shan silver mines, 15 miles to the north-west. The first half of the journey, before we got into the hills, was over a large fertile plain cultivated with rice and millet ("kao-liang"). Here we met a
3
constant procession of men carrying baskets of liquid indigo into Kuei Hsien. Riec. however, is the chief product of the district.
The Chinese overseer in charge of the mines said they had been closed now for over a year. After running at a loss of from 2,000 dollars to 3,000 dollars a-month, the Hua sing Company had made them over to Government. The expenses latterly had been about 6,000 dollars a-month, including 20 cents a-day each for some 250 coolies. The coal used for smelting was Japanese, and cost on delivery at the mines 20 dollars a-ton, This included 6 dollars a-ton paid for carriage by coolies over the hills from Kuei Hsien. About 100 tons were used each mouth. The produce of the mines was valued at about 5.000 dollars to 3,000 dollars a-month; but, though the loss was thus beary, the over- seer believes that some Chinese Syndicate in Hong Kong will attempt to work them again. A great many of the old employés were still living near the mines. Some were washing for ore in the hill streams, making, they say, about 10 cents a-day; others of the old employés had taken to indigo cultivation, which is carried on here with considerable success.
Kuei Hsien boasts two new-model clementary schools, upper and lower grade. Each has 100 pupils. Expenses are defrayed from the "t'u chuan" (tax on pigs killed), the revenge of temple lands, and the proceeds of the old University, now abolished. The schools were opened only this year, and are not yet quite complete. English and Japanese are to be taught in the upper-grade school by Chinese instructors. The French missionaries here, on whom I called, propose to build a church shortly.
Hsunchow Chow-fu.The 15th August, the Emperor of China's birthday, was spent here, and the "Moorhen," dressed ship for the occasion, and gave a firework display in the evening, which was much appreciated by the inhabitants. While mentioning these details, I may add that throughout the trip the "Moorhen did its best to show the flag, having a jack in the bow, a white ensign at the main, and the same aft.
"
I did not see the Profect, as, according to the message from his yamên, he had gone to the hills in connection with some ceremonies in honour of the Emperor. This official had just taken over office from his predecessor, of whom Mr. Fox had to complain in 1904.
The church of the French Mission was built in 1902, and is a conspicuous feature in the town. The city is well provided educationally, having primary and elementary schools and a middle college, all on the new plan. The elementary schools were clean and well ordered, while the middle college was quite palatial. In the latter the students, for some of whom there are dormitories, number over 200, and English and Japanese are both taught by Chinese instructors.
4. Competition with West Ricer Trade.
When in Pakhoi, I was informed that before the opening of the West River the total value of trade between Nanning and Pakhoi was over 1,000,000 Haikwan taels. This has been almost entirely diverted down the West River, and the Nanning trade with Pakhoi is at present practically nil.
Lately native newspapers have again raised rumours as to French engineers surveying the Lungchow-Nanning route, but the intermediate country is generally recognized to be so poor and dangerous that it is extremely doubtful whether a line from Nanning to connect with the Haiphong-Hanoi-Dongdang line would
pay. Except perhaps in three winter months such a line, provided there were no differential rates, would probably do little to divert the general current of traffic from the West River. As for the proposed railway from Nanning to Pakhoi, the apparent failure of Kwang Chow Wan "as a commercial port is likely to prevent the French from building such a line, if they ever seriously thought of it, which seems doubtful.
At Wuchow many rumours were current in regard to the imminent opening (effectively) of Nanning, and the Commissioner there, Herr von Strauch, left for Nanning in a launch on the 7th August with a view, it was said, to making arrange- ments for Customs quarters.
5. Attitude of Natives: Piracy.
The natives along the route were quite friendly; in no case was insult offered to any one when ashore. The usual crowds formed in the streets to stare, but their
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